Apologies for the gap between this post and the last one- I've been very busy with school work etc.
It was on the 22nd November that I went to the Youth Open Bouldering event at The Climbing Works, Sheffield to compete in my less favoured discipline-bouldering (to non-climbers this involves climbing short problems without a rope).
Upon arrival I warmed up and went to look at my problems-I was pleased but surprised to find lots of slabby problems and only a few vertical/overhang/roof ones. I was still annoyed about my 4th place the previous day. However, I tried to come into this comp with a new mindset as I knew I didn't have as much pressure on me today.
The qualifiers were surprisingly difficult considering the gradients of them and the most topped by anyone was 4 out of 8 by Hannah Slaney. I managed to flash (get first go) the easiest (but by no means easy) problem in a corner which involved pressing on slopers and careful feet. What put me in 2nd qualifying position was flashing another much harder slab, which most people tried to dyno but I, being rubbish at dynos, found a way to do statically.
The finals were a mix of styles with one slab and two overhangs. I discussed the sequence of each with my fellow finalists in observation and warmed up carefully in isolation. The first problem was a powerful overhang with a mix of crimps and slopers. I got to the bonus hold first go (I knew at the time this put me in joint 1st position so far) but couldn't get past this point on any attempt as I couldn't figure out where to put my feet.
The second problem was far more suited to me, being a slab and I read the problem carefully before getting on the wall (it was a 3 min+ time system). With careful foot placements and slow, balanced movements I was able to flash this, retaining my position of joint 1st.
I soon realised that the person I was tying with, Alexia Basch, had qualified in 4 the place behind me so if I could climb well in the last final I would win the competition on count back! This made me nervous and on the last block I fell before reaching the bonus because of a big, powerful deadpoint move. This was my worst kind of move (apart from full dynos) and I was unable to complete the move on any attempts. I watched Hannah Slaney, who climbed after me, get past this move and to my dismay, calculated that I had come 3rd. Although this would have been a good position for me in bouldering, I had been so fixed on winning before the last block.
However, they do say 'don't count your chickens before they've hatched' and I found in the awards ceremony that I had miscalculated my position and had come 2nd! I was chuffed with this but also surprised that I had done better in the bouldering than in the leading. Congratulations to Alexia Basch, who came 1st and Hannah Slaney, who came 3rd as well as all the other competitors.